Ultar Sar Expedition
Ultar Sar or Ultar Peak is a 7,388 meter (or 24,239ft) peak in the sub-range of the Karakoram Mountains known as the Batura Muztagh. It comprises of two peaks called Ultar I and Ultar II, and it’s near the village of Karimabad (10km northeast) in Hunza Valley, Pakistan. It is well known in the region for its spectacular vertical ascent and hosts many beautiful views from all around the Hunza-Nagar Valley.
Ultar Sar is also neighbor to Lady Finger Peak (or ‘Bubli Mo Tin’ known by the locals) which is considered one of the most challenging summits in Pakistan but still hosts one of the most amazing sites, along with Shispare 7,611 meters (or 24,970ft), and Hunza Peak 6,270 meters (or 20,570 ft). It is also surrounded by the Hunza River, and glaciers that include Attabad, Ultar, Hassan Abad and Batura.
Ultar Sar was very famous during the 1990s because it was referred (incorrectly) as the highest unclimbed independent peak in the world which is also the reason why there were around 15 attempts during the 1980s and 1990s to climb to the summit of this peak but none were successful.
The first successful ascent was made by Akito Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka of the Japanese Alpine Club in 1996 via Bathbakor Base Camp. In recent times, Ultar Sar Base Camp was a popular trekking and hiking site for all kinds of tourists, and it was even further helped by the recent increase in flux of tourism in the Hunza and Nagar Valley region.
Ultar Sar is a technically harder peak in this region with overhanging rocks, crevasses, sharp ridges, and bad weather conditions. It’s for mature and experienced climbers, and requires advanced mountaineering skills.
The peak is also infamous for its avalanches. In July, 2018 an avalanche hit 3 foreign mountaineers stuck at 19,000 ft high on the Ultar Peak. A daring rescue mission by Pakistan Army Aviation took place and 2 of the mountaineers were rescued while the third one had succumbed to the extremes of the avalanche.
The services of such a trip includes hotel booking, government permits because it is a peak higher than 7000m, domestic flights, chefs, tour guides, visa assistance, porters, camping equipment, daily food, kitchen equipment & tools etc.
Itinerary – Ultar Sar Peak Expedition
Days | Activities | Overnight |
1 | Arrival in Islamabad transfer to Hotel | Hotel |
2 | Briefing in Islamabad | Hotel |
3 | Fly to Gilgit (Flight is subject to weather). In case of cancellation of flight drive (10-12 hrs) by coach to Chilas (480 km) on Karakoram Highway | Hotel |
4 | Drive to Karimabad | Hotel |
5 | Trek to the Base Camp | Camp |
6-35 | 30 days for acclimatization and climbing | Camp |
36 | Trek back to Karimabad | Hotel |
37 | Drive by coach back to Chilas | Hotel |
38 | Morning drive to Islamabad it will take 10 to 12 hours | Hotel |
39 | Debriefing In Islamabad | Hotel |
40 | Transfer to airport for your fly home. |
- All domestic flights and road transfers
- All hotel accommodation (twin sharing room)
- All Expedition accommodation
- All camping site and bridge fees
- All Expedition logistics (all tents, non-personal equipment and tools etc)
- All meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner)
- Licensed professional guide (government requirement)
- Government Expedition permit fees and paperwork
- Waste management fees (government requirement)
- Support staff (cook, assistant(s) etc)
- Porter for personal luggage (40 kgs)
- First aid medicine kit (basic)
- Satellite phone for emergencies
- D3V sleeping tent, Toilet Tent, Shower Tent.
- Personal travel insurance (suggestions only)
- Visa to Pakistan (five supporting documents will be offered)
- International airfare
- Personal equipment (e.g. trekking shoes, down jacket, walking sticks etc)
- Personal mountain equipment (crampon, mountaineering boot, ice axe, harness, two carabiners, helmet etc)
- Extra nights in Islamabad (hotel check in/out is 12pm) - additional USD 49 per night
- Tips/gratuities for guides, porters, staff etc
- Miscellaneous (minibar, bottled water, phone calls, laundry, souvenir etc)